Struggles of Artisans
Shaheena, 40, from Srinagar’s Old City, has been practicing Aari embroidery for over two decades. She says, “I earn only ₹1,200 to ₹ 1,500 a month —an amount that barely covers household expenses.”
“The payment we receive is too less for the labour and skill we invest in our work. It even makes it difficult to support our families financially. Besides, it is much less than men artisans, though very few are in this line of Aari work, earn for the same work,” she says, her voice reflecting sheer frustration of the dual discrimination.
“I laugh to hide my tears, but the truth is that while our hands weave the magic, our pockets remain empty.”
Like many other women in her neighbourhood, she learned Aari embroidery in her childhood. She said poverty prevented her from pursuing an education, and this craft became her only source of livelihood.
“I continue Aari work out of necessity as we are very poor. Aari embroidery is my only means of survival,” she adds.
The low wages and financial hardships force many women to take up additional work, such as domestic labour, to supplement their income. However, juggling multiple jobs while managing their embroidery skills proves to be an overwhelming burden.
A Lifetime of Perseverance
Tasleema, 44-year-old artisan, echoes similar concerns. She was forced to leave her schooling early due to financial hardships in her family and then she picked up Aari embroidery from local mentors.
“Even after my marriage, I continued working, but the wages remain too low to sustain a decent standard of living,” she tells Kashmir Times. Despite the financial struggles, Tasleema takes pride in the facts that her income, however small, has allowed her children to receive an education in from a local school.
“Machine-made products might be cheap, but they lack soul. Our Aari work is a reflection of our culture, our traditions, and our love.”
She firmly believes that if given proper government support, women artisans can thrive and preserve Kashmir’s embroidery heritage while achieving economic independence. “If women get access to markets and financial assistance, we can improve our lives. The skill is there, but we lack opportunities,” she says.
A Skilled Artisan with a Vision
Shareefa, another artisan from Srinagar, has been practicing Aari work from over 12 years. She initially worked in Pashmina embroidery but had to shift to Aari work due to the decline of the Pashmina industry in Valley.
“The government didn’t support Pashmina embroidery, and now only five percent of the original artisans remain in the trade. I fear the same will happen with Aari work,” she said. She believes that setting up government-run embroidery workshops in every district would provide artisans with stability.
To preserve this dying art form, Shareefa has been advocating for training programs that can help younger generations learn the craft and sustain its legacy.
Young Female Artists Losing Hope
Many young women in Kashmir are losing faith in the viability of Aari embroidery as a profession. A 22-year-old artisan, who wished to remain anonymous, shared her concerns
“I quit my studies in childhood due to poverty. I wanted to save money for my marriage with Aari work, but it feels impossible in today’s world. This craft does not provide enough income to secure my future,” she said.
Amina’s lonely struggle
In Srinagar, a woman named Fatima with her two kids earns Rs 2000 monthly.
In her 40s, she possesses a diminutive stature and a slender frame that initially suggest frailty. Yet, as she speaks, her words unravel a woman of remarkable resilience – solid and strong like a rock.
Amina's family lives in an ageing house, damaged by partial collapse and weathered by time, and there is scarcely enough to feed her two children. Her husband passed away several years ago due to a heart attack. Her voice becomes a low whisper when she mentions him. “He supported us and was a nice man. After his death, I feel depressed and suffocated….” Her words trail and stops midway.
“Sometimes I spend hours, even days, perfecting a single mistake in my work, but the wages I receive are a pittance,” she says, her eyes turning moist.
Aari Work Process
Aari work, a form of embroidery, was introduced to Kashmir by Sultan Zain-Ul-Abidin of Persia in 1420, and it involves using a hooked needle (called Aari) to create intricate designs, particularly floral and paisley patterns, on fabrics like cotton, silk and wool etc. The work is mainly done on drapes, cushion covers, bedspreads, shopping bags, upholstery, and handwoven dasooti cloth.
Government Support: A Distant Dream
Despite multiple appeals, artisans continue to struggle due to a lack of official support. Many women have expressed disappointment in the absence of government schemes aimed at reviving and sustaining the industry. While some initiatives exist on paper, their implementation remains far from reality.
“We need designated spaces where women can work together, share knowledge. and sell their handmade products without middlemen exploiting them,” said Shareefa.
Experts believe that reviving this dying art form requires a multi-pronged approach, including financial assistance, skill development programs, and direct market access.
"Artisans connected with this profession do their work on a very small scale. But the changing trend is compelling many to quit and is not luring the younger generation to learn the art,” says Shareefa.
From Kashmir, most of the items are exported to other parts of India and abroad.
"Some niche products go to the US and European markets," the artist said. "Products like sarees, suits and shawls all also go to the Middle East."
“We need designated spaces where women can work together, share knowledge, and sell their handmade products without middlemen exploiting them,” adds Shareefa.
Experts believe that reviving this dying art form requires a multi-pronged approach, including financial assistance, skill development programs, and direct market access.
A Vision for Sustainability
Mohammad Saleem Beg, Convenor of the J&K Chapter of Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), in conversation with Kashmir Times, said there are few steps that can ease the problems faced by women artisans in Kashmir Valley.
There are certain issues that have existed for a long time, and workers in general of medium or median skill range always suffer because of exploitation the rules of trade and merchandise.
He suggests that the government can support Kashmiri women artisans in several ways, though direct management of production isn't feasible. “While governments shouldn't establish production centres, purchase products, fund production, or handle sales (attempts at such interventions typically fail), there are more effective approaches,” he says.
“The core issue is that these women lack resources to produce and own their creations. Instead, they work as piece workers with little control over their wages, which are determined by market forces and middlemen,” Beg adds.
Pointing to a major impediment, he says many of these women artisans possess only semi-developed skills, resulting in lower quality work and consequently lower wages. “I firmly believe the government should intervene by implementing skill development programs to enhance their capabilities and improve their livelihoods,” Beg avers.
The INTACH Convenor advocates for a robust and vibrant co-operative model with government support.
He elaborates, “These artisans – men or women – need to be organised. Two to five individuals can come together to start a craft-based initiative, and the government support can be helpful in setting up an organization and offering micro-credit facilities for small set-ups.”
This, he feels, would enable these groups to purchase raw materials collectively, ultimately leading to improved returns and increased sustainability.
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