The water flour mill, locally known as 'Aab-e-Gratta' in Kashmiri language, is a centuries-old traditional mechanism for grinding maize, rice, and wheat into fresh chemical-free grains in Kashmir. These traditional flour mills are mostly built in hilly areas where there are abundant water resources.
The once-thriving mills, that were popular across Kashmir, are now victims of modernisation, climate change, and official neglect. They are disappearing and only a few remain.
A changing landscape
60-year-old Ghulam Qadir Gakher, who was running one such mill till 2023 reveals he had to shut it down due to lack of work. “Severe water shortage and other impacts of climate change were major impediments,” he says with a sigh and recalls the old grandeur of the mill.
"Our water mill was built 100 years ago by my grandfather, then my father, Abdul Aziz Gakher, took over. After his passing, I ran it for decades. But now I am compelled to find another way to support my family."
Gakher, like many other mill owners, has turned to alternative means of income. "Now, I am constructing a fish farm, which will start operating in March," he said.
"There were once 15 water mills in Nowshara Uri,” he tells. But over the past decade, 12 have shut down due to declining work and water shortage. “The government has not helped us sustain these mills. We asked the administration for a proper water drainage system to keep them running, but our requests have always been ignored," he said.
Watermills’ mechanism
The Aab-e-Gratt in Kashmiri, are typically built along fast-moving streams, waterfalls, and natural springs in hilly areas, where the water flow is strong and consistent. The mechanism is simple yet efficient. Water is channeled from a stream through a wooden or stone-lined sluice gate, directing it onto a large wooden wheel known as the "Chak" in the local language of these villagers.
As the water flows over the wheel, its force turns the wheel, which is connected to a vertical shaft. This shaft then rotates a pair of heavy millstones, with the upper stone (runner stone) moving over a stationary lower stone (bed stone). The grains are fed through a hole in the upper stone and ground into fine flour as they pass between them.
The best water bodies for these mills are mountain glaciers and waterfalls (natural springs), as they provide a steady and reliable water supply.
Water scarcity hits watermills
The owners of the closed mills in Nowshara Uri mentioned that the lack of water and government support forced them to shut down their traditional water mills. Mohammad Ashraf Mir, a lecturer at Girls Higher Secondary School who has done an in-depth study on the water mills, however, pointed out that the rise of electric and diesel-powered mills has also had a significant impact on these traditional setups.
The water-driven mills, popular in the 18th and 19th centuries, produced fresh, chemical-free flour, which was a staple in local diets. However, modern mills, while faster an convenient, have raised health concerns due to processed foods and safety hazards.
“Flour from electric and diesel mills is often exposed to excessive heat during grinding, which can reduce its nutritional value and make it tasteless compared to flour produced using traditional methods,” Mir pointed out.
Diesel-powered modern machines
Diesel-powered machines, in particular, release harmful emissions like particulate matter, nitrogen oxides, and sulfur dioxide. Regular exposure to these pollutants can cause respiratory issues, heart disease, and other health problems, especially for those working near the machines.
Mir added, "In the past, people relied on water mills for natural flour, but today, electronic machines are preferred even as they pose serious risks."
“High-speed machinery increases the risk of workplace accidents, including electric shocks and mechanical injuries. Many machine operators have suffered accidents involving the hard rubber belts that run around metal wheels,” the lecturer added.
"Many lives have been lost due to electric shocks and machinery accidents, making these mills more dangerous than the traditional ones," he told the Kashmir Times.
Tradition & Legend
There are different words associated with the water mills locals. Kashmiri mill owners and villagers refer - the traditional water mill is Aab-e-Gratta. Together with all its essential components, such as the Chak (water-driven wheel or turbine), millstones, wooden and mud structures is called Jinder.
Rooted in tradition, the water mills culturally hold a special place for many. The exact origin of these mills is not known.
But Abdul Rasheed Bhat, a mill owner from Nowshara Uri, connects it to a local legend.
"It is believed that a wise man Hazrat Luqman built the first water mill, but he initially struggled to grind maize and rice properly," Bhat said. "Then, Iblīs (the devil) approached him, offering a solution in exchange for half of the mill’s work. Hazrat Luqman refused and instead offered only the dust produced during grinding. Iblīs accepted and revealed the solution—a wooden piece (Shog) placed at the mill's exit to regulate the flour flow."
But legends offer little comfort to mill owners facing financial hardship. Bhat, whose 150-year-old mill was built by his grandfather, Abdul Gaffar Bhat, has seen his income dwindle. "In the past, my father earned well, and living expenses were low," he said.
"Today, I make a maximum of 400 rupees a day, which is barely enough to support my family. The peak season for these mills is only four to five months, from November to March. If a part of the mill gets damaged, we sometimes lose an entire day just repairing it," he says, talking about the cumbersome process and the comparatively low returns.
Resilience in the face of decline
Despite the decline, some villages continue to preserve the age-old practice. In Mund-Daji, a remote village in Rafiabad, 35 kilometres away from Main Town Sopore, a water mill has been in operation for centuries.
Ghulam Nabi and Mohammed Yaseen, the current owners, have been running the mill for 40 years. "Our ancestors used this mill for generations," said Nabi, 60.
"Our fathers, Hashim Ali and Fakeer Mohammad, and our grandfather, Raj Mohammad, all ran this mill. Our livelihood depends on it,” they say, and shed light on how the mills are still tied to transactions in kind, rather than cash.
“Labourers bring their raw materials here, and we take one kilogram of flour as payment for every six kilograms we grind," they say. The rate of one kilogram in the market is Rs 40.
"The mill only operates during the day," said Ajaz Ahmed, a neighbor. "Villagers don’t bring maize, wheat, or corn at night, and there’s no proper lighting to keep it running after dark."
Emotional Connect with watermills
For Laldil Khatana, 50, from Boniyar Uri, traditional mills still hold an emotional connect and he continues to be a loyal customer.
"I prefer flour from these water mills because our ancestors used them," he said. "They always said this flour is free-flowing and healthier compared to what is produced by electronic machines. It is pure and hygienic, and I have been bringing maize and rice here for grinding for decades."
While some communities strive to preserve their traditional mills, many fear they will soon vanish completely.
"As responsible members of society, we should support our old traditions, so they survive for the next generation," Khatana said. "But unfortunately, no one seems to care," he laments.
For now, the remaining water mills of Kashmir stand as silent witnesses to a way of life that is slowly fading—one stone at a time.
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