Beetroot pickles at this shop offer a distinct flavor, standing out from the rest with their rich colour and unique taste. Photo/Umer Farooq
Photos & Text: Umer Farooq
In the heart of Srinagar’s bustling markets, the air is thick with the aroma of mustard oil and Kashmiri spices, generations of pickle artisans continue a centuries-old craft.
From the seasoned hands of Ghulam Qadir Senoo, the legendary "Pickle King" of Kashmir, to the youthful determination of Mohammed Altaf Pandith and Musaib Fayaz, the art of pickling in Kashmir is not just about preserving flavours it’s about preserving legacy and culture.
The Pickle King of Kashmir
At 75, Ghulam Qadir Senoo stands as a master craftsman in Kashmir’s pickle business. For over four decades, he has created more than 100 varieties of pickles, blending tradition with innovation. His shop, Senoo Kashmir Pickles, is a year-round hub for locals and tourists, exporting flavours from Kashmir Valley to mainland India, the Middle East, and Europe.
Ghulam Qadir Senoo, carefully packs a fresh selection for a waiting customer at his shop, surrounded by colourful jars and trays filled with a variety of homemade pickles.Ghulam Qadir Senoo Kashmir Pickles, located in Habba Kadal, Srinagar, is a renowned shop offering over 100 varieties of pickles year-round, preserving the rich flavours of Kashmir through traditional and innovative recipes.Inside Ghulam Qadir Senoo’s shop, a vibrant display of pickles offers a variety of flavours, each with its own distinct taste and price. From meat to vegetable pickles, every jar carries the essence of Kashmir’s culinary tradition.A vibrant display of freshly made carrot pickles, bursting with spices and flavors, prepared to add a tangy twist to every meal.This is a unique grape pickle, one of the finest fruit pickles made by Ghulam Qadir Senoo. With his expertise, he transforms fresh grapes into a tangy and flavourful delight for his customers.Spiced to perfection! A tempting display of kebab and chicken pickles at Senoo Kashmir Pickles, where rich flavours meet age-new Kashmiri culture.A treasure trove of flavours! Freshly prepared fish pickle sits among a vibrant selection of pickles at Senoo’s shop, each bursting with unique spices and rich aromas.A delicious and aromatic nadru (lotus stem) pickle, bursting with spices and rich flavors, adding a perfect tangy twist to every meal.From the first customer he served from Mumbai to the rare Wazwan-inspired Kebab and Rista pickles, Senoo’s creations are deeply rooted in Kashmir’s evolving culinary culture. "Pickling is not just a business for us," he says, meticulously stirring a large vat of mustard oil-infused vegetables.
"It is a legacy of taste, passed from one generation to the next."
His shop remains a cornerstone of Kashmir’s culinary heritage, where jars of pickles, priced between ₹200 to ₹1,000 per kg, hold stories of labour, spices and tradition.
The Ramadan Pickle Maker of Downtown Srinagar
Mohammed Altaf Pandith represents a new wave of entrepreneurs embracing seasonal traditions. Every year, during the holy month of Ramadan, his small but vibrant stall at Fateh Kadal in downtown Srinagar comes alive with eager customers.
With over 20 exclusive varieties, his Ramadan specialities include spiced trout, lotus stem, and dried mutton pickles flavors that hold deep cultural significance. "Ramadan is the season of togetherness, and our pickles are part of that tradition," he says, quickly sealing a jar of golden-hued mustard pickle for a waiting customer.
Under the shade of a red umbrella, Mohammed Altaf Pandith, a seasonal pickle vendor from Downtown Srinagar, tends to his busy street stall as customers eagerly observe the array of spicy and flavourful pickles, carefully selecting their favorites amidst the bustling market atmosphere.Pandith serves customers as they are waiting for an array of spicy, sour, and deep fried delicacies a staple of local flavors and Ramadan festivities.A vibrant and tangy saag pickle "leafy green", a traditional delicacy that has been a staple in rural households for centuries. This age-old recipe reflects the rich culinary heritage of Kashmir, passed down through generations.Amidst the vibrant array of pickles, the vendor introduces a savoury twist to freshly prepared kebabs. This unexpected addition brings a rich, meaty delight to the spread, blending tradition with indulgence in a marketplace known for its bold flavours.A rich and flavorful mutton pickle, marinated with traditional spices and aged to perfection. This delicacy combines tender, spice-infused meat with the tangy goodness of mustard seeds, garlic, and oil, creating a burst of taste in every bite a true treat for lovers of bold, aromatic flavors.Mohammed Altaf Pandith, a seasonal pickle vendor, carefully packs a box of fresh, tangy pickles for a customer at his bustling stall in Downtown Srinagar, where the rich aroma of spices fills the air.Deep, earthy hues reveal the authenticity of this centuries old traditional pickle, crafted in rural kitchens and now showcased at the seasonal pickle market. Its rich color speaks of time-honoured recipes, natural fermentation, and the essence of homegrown flavours.The process is intense, demanding long hours of careful preparation. "Everything is handmade no shortcuts," Altaf explains. "We mix the spices, sun-dry the ingredients, and let them ferment naturally." Despite being a seasonal business, his pickles sell out fast, proving that even in a rapidly modernizing world, the old ways still have a special place in Kashmiri hearts.
Carrying Forward a Family’s Legacy
In Hazratbal, Musaib Fayaz is determined to carry forward his family’s pickle-making legacy. His grandfather once sold pickles in the same market, followed by his father, and now at 26, Musaib is the third generation to keep the tradition alive.
"I have been watching this process since childhood," he says. "Pickle making is not just about selling food; it’s about keeping a tradition alive." His Small vendor operates all year round, but during Ramadan, the demand skyrockets. "People love the rich flavors, the bright colors t’s a taste that reminds them of home," he adds.
Amid the market’s buzz, Musaib Fayaz’s pickle stall draws in customers hungry for a taste of traditional flavors passed down through generations, still stealing the show.Under the shade of a red umbrella, Musaib Fayaz’s legacy pickle stall stands out in the bustling market. Surrounded by vendors, with every jar, he keeps the old flavours alive, making his stall a cherished stop for locals. A legacy in every jar, his pickles keep the old flavors alive in the heart of the Kashmir Valley’s market.Tangy, spiced, and bursting with tradition mango pickle, the king of flavors, made from the fruit that rules them all.Bright and bold, these deep beetroot slices catch every eye and bring a unique taste that keeps people coming back.A mix of vegetables pickles covered in tasty spices, full of flavour in every bite.Despite being in business for two years, Musaib’s dedication is unwavering. "I want to expand, maybe even take my grandfather’s legacy online," he says. "But no matter what, I will never compromise on tradition."
Pickles in Kashmir are more than just condiments; they are a reflection of history, family, and culture. Whether it's Senoo’s global reach, Altaf's seasonal rush, or Musaib’s generational journey, each artisan contributes to a culinary tradition that has stood the test of time.